Dj Khaled Fashion in Hip Hop Culture
Human meme and professional showman DJ Khaled attended the 2016 MTV'south Video Music Awards in a navy Goyard bomber jacket. This was intriguing, considering the luxury French brand produces luggage and leather goods, not outerwear. And this didn't go unnoticed.
Goyard quickly took to Twitter to dispel whatsoever rumors that the bomber might be an official piece, whether a one-of-one custom piece for Khaled or a sign of things to come. From its official account, Goyard retweetwed images of Khaled, complete with the (at present-deleted) terse commentary:
Luckily, it turns out Khaled was just a little more on the up-and-upward than Goyard seemed to expect. First he tweeted about his approach to creating the item:
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And eventually Goyard striking back with a notation about the disputed particular's provenance. (It'due south also since been deleted.)
Possibly not the most pleasant foray into the spotlight for the centuries-old luxury maker. But before we get into the current country of things, a history lesson.
The French company's origins date back to 1792, under the proper noun House of Martin, which was created by Pierre-François Martin. But the named changed in 1853 when François Goyard took over the high-terminate travel luggage of the French bourgeoisie. Goyard expanded the brand's operations and that business acumen was continued by his son, Edmond, who created the signature Goyardine canvas.
In its New York City Upper East Side location, the company proudly displays a document confirming that Napoleon the Iii only used Goyard luggage. By the early 20th century, Edmond'southward work saw his product carried by gimmicky elites like the Rockefeller family unit. Only by the tardily 20th century the brand was financially struggling, and in 1998 the Goyard family sold to a French businessman Jean-Michel Signoles.
Early introduced to the manner, Signoles was just a teenager when he founded the French clothing line Chipie. When he approached Goyard in the mid 1990s, the Goyard family unit was struggling and pumping their own money into the company to cover their substantial losses. Within a decade, Signoles re-established Goyard'southward traditional roots by setting upward production in Carcassonne, France. He expanded the brand's retail footprint beyond a single Parisian storefront. Today, Goyard has retail locations in Mexico City, Milan, Tokyo, and San Francisco, and is sold at numerous Barneys stores.
Notoriously, Goyard refuses to engage in due east-commerce. Dissimilar brands such every bit Louis Vuitton and Versace, Goyard never participated in the late 20th Century democratization of luxury, eschewing licensing its products into perfumes or even a hotel. It'south a double-edged sword. On ane paw, the brand benefits from non seeing its product copied and reduced down to a cheap pop-civilisation antiquity. On the other—across the potential revenue lost—it seems stubbornly removed from the modernistic flow of fashion.
Just that anti-internet stance may be paying off in at least one way: The make has become something of a hip-hop obsession every bit of late.
Final year, Complex traced the first mention of Goyard to 2006, in the songs "Liquid Swords" and "Information technology Was A Neat Twenty-four hours," by Pharrell, an artist who's well known for being on the bleeding edge of way. Kanye Westward rapped "The fur is Hermes, shit that you lot don't floss / The Goyard then hard man, I'chiliad Hugo'due south dominate" in "The Glory," on his 2007 album Graduation, and in 2009 he showed upwards to Paris Style Week carrying a Goyard torso outside of the Comme des Garçons testify.
Recently, Goyard found itself back at rap'south forefront: terminal year, Fabolous wrote "Goyard Bag," which included the lyrics "Look I just think shorty similar my get hard swag / Plough my brown bags to a Goyard bag." Featured guest on "Bad and Boujee," Lil Uzi Vert frequently references the make in the songs "7am," "Buy It," and "All My Bondage." And post-internet rap sensations Lil Yachty and Playboi Carti can exist spotted wearing Goyard belts and wallets.
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Dissimilar other brands in the space, Goyard de-prioritizes its ain logo, It's recognizable, if yous're paying attention; but Goyard doesn't shout about its ain image. In that way, it's an outlier for both luxury fashion and rap music: Where both prefer bold projection, Goyard speaks with an inside vocalism.
The 1980s saw many rappers—along with athletes and drug kingpins—dressed by Dapper Dan, the Harlem-based designer, whose work would take logos from Chanel, Gucci, and Louis Vuitton and plow them into tracksuits and bomber jackets never seen on their runways. Dan'due south remixed luxury aesthetic predated Tom Ford at Gucci, and Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton: designers who embraced a logo-centric and obvious display of luxury.
Ane early high point of the intersection between rap and loftier fashion was 1996, when Tupac modeled for Versace. Yet in 2016, that relationship is closer than always: Kanye West appears in ads for Balmain, Travis Scott in ads for Saint Laurent. Goyard missed the showtime wave, and this current wave is cresting largely without the company'southward agile interest. That'due south kind of the entreatment: With its underexposed but distinctive Y-design prints, Goyard retains an old-school luxury sensibility that is increasingly rare.
Yet that exclusivity appears to be in danger with so many people fix to co-op the make. On Instagram it's hard to non run across rappers proudly displaying their own Goyard bags on and off private jet flights. Last year in Midtown Manhattan, Queens-born, Atlanta-raised rapper Rich the Kid said he recalled that Kanye Westward was his offset touchstone for Goyard, followed by A$AP Rocky. Fifty-fifty though he'due south been in early on the brand in this latest moment of popularity, he saw the through line of picking it upwards from Migos, the Atlanta rap trio, who themselves got on information technology from Rocky. Goyard, to Rich The Kid and certainly his peers, represents a value that money but can't purchase.
Although he was quick to notation, with a glimmer of pride, "Goyard costs more than Gucci."
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